Overcoming one-size-fits-all…

It seems like we have so many choices today, but the more I look the more I find the same low-quality cookie cutter shoes, the same starchy shirts, and the same pair of artificially worn jeans. In a race for returns, companies have ramped up and outsourced production leaving many of us with full closets, yet nothing to wear.

As a millennial and a conscious consumer I have a few problems when it comes to shopping for new shoes…

My Problem:

• Finding ethically made shoes is difficult. After my recent trip to a Vietnamese garment factory I’m even more devoted to fair trade.
• Finding shoes that fit right, that I can walk more than a few blocks in, is insanely frustrating. It’s frustrating because I have very average feet and I expect it to be easy to find comfortable shoes. Yet, pair after pair just aren’t quite right. A blister here, a weird rub there… I’ve left style behind, wearing my running shoes everywhere.
• Settling for shoes that are “okay” happens too often. I buy a pair, wear them for a few days before realizing they aren’t comfortable or I was suckered into buying them by a pushy salesman. Then they sit around for a few months until I finaly donate them to Goodwill.
• Can I be original for once without paying $200 for shoes? Everywhere I go I see the same Vans, Nike, and Topsiders that have outcompeted all other brands.

…but I also have a solution.

My Solution:

• Go to the source. Find out who’s making my shoes so I know where my money is going.
• Go custom.
  • Have shoes made for my feet. Not the average shape of a 27 year old’s foot. My actual foot.
  • Chose my own style… no compromises.
• Enjoy the unique experience and value my shoes more for it.

 

So here’s how I found my custom, ethical shoes at a very reasonable price:

One small detail: I had to travel half way around the world to do it…

Highlighted in travel guides as a must see tourist destination where you can get a tailored suit at bargain price, Hoi An was an easy choice for me to start my search for custom shoes, but it wasn’t quite what I expected.

From the capital city I flew to Da Nang in the middle of Vietnam, rented a scooter, and made the 30 min ride along the coast to get to the “ancient city” of Hoi An. It’s a historic port city that was a hub for traders coming as far away as Portugal, India and Japan. This UNESCO World Heritage site has been preserved for its cultural as a South-East Asia trading port from the 1400’s… and today it’s still somewhat of a trading port, dominated mostly by Americans and Europeans on their Southeast Asia tour.

As soon as I arrived my shield went up and I assumed my defensive stance against buying anything. There was a high density of tourists and pretty aggressive vendors selling everything from trinkets to tailored suits and I was a little overwhelmed.

I wasn’t expecting to get the same feeling you get when you walk into an outlet mall and I was dissapointed when I did. So, I did what I always do when I feel overwhelmed – I made my way to the fringes.

Away from the ferver and feeling a little more comfortable, I started my search.

In an older building on the outskirts of the local food market I met Cam. Cam is a shoe vendor who owns her own custom shoe business. Her store front is basically a 6×3 foot space with custom shoe designs on display.

I had a lot of questions about who made the shoes she sells, where the materials came from, and how the whole process worked. Cam was happy to explain the shoe making process with me over a plate of rice and vegetables at her sister’s food stand -I try not to make decisions on an empty stomach (rule #2).

Before I agreed to buy a pair of custom shoes from Cam, I had to see where my shoes would be made. I was afraid I would put in my order only to find out later my shoes were mass produced behind the scenes. So, I got on the back of her scooter and she drove me to her house to show me the process.

This is what I found:

I wasn’t sure what to expect when I jumped on the back of Cam’s scooter and was whisked away. But after a couple main streets and a few sketchy alleys later we popped out here:

I quickly realized this shoe making operation was quite literally taking place in a converted home.

When I entered the “shoe shop” I was relieved to find that it was nothing like the garment factory I had been in a few weeks earlier. The atmosphere was relaxed. Her family (and friends) welcomed me in and were excited at the opportunity to practice their English. A few men worked casually on different pairs of shoes, while others watched, relaxed, and did what we all do with every free second – killed time on their smart phones.

Cutting the sole… not everyone in the operation is an artist.

Here are the main panels of the shoe in their infancy. Using a stencil he outlines the panels of the fabric with a silver pen before cutting them out with scissors and punching holes with that weird-looking hammer, nail, and cutting board you see at the top of the picture.

About half of the guys working were shirtless… and I can’t blame them. I was drenched in sweat after my first 15 minutes of walking around Hoi An with my backpack on. It’s f’ing hot and humid in Vietnam this time of year.

Trimming panels for the right fit and sewing the panels together.

After the body of the shoe is formed and sewn, the sole is added. This giant sewing machine is the only part of the process that seemed industrial.

Getting My Shoes

I decided to put in my order for my dream shoe.

I picked a style she had on display and began making my modification requests, going over the whole shoe. I knew what I wanted in my head and did my best to describe to her my perfect shoe. Using a few other shoes as examples I showed her what features I wanted for each part of the shoe and then picked the fabric.

Cam proceeded to measure my feet in a few different ways. She measured the length (obviously) but also the circumference of my feet at the base of my toes and my arch, as well as the back of my heel to the base of my ankle. Coming from my typical experience of only choosing the difference between size 10.5 and 11… I was already impressed with the customization.

After putting in my order I had to wait two days…

With my specific modification requests I was a little nervous, but… my new shoes turned out great.

What’s special about these shoes?

Besides being shaped to the length, height, and width of my foot, I also had a few other modifications to make them more comfortable:

• No metal – This type of shoe usually comes standard with metal in the heel and toe to give it a tight rigid look. It also makes the shoes really uncomfortable.
• Soft heel – Shoes like this usually have a hard wood heel. I opted for a soft sole throughout to make it more comfortable to walk in.
• These shoes have a story.

 

What’s Next? 

The transparency of my shoe buying experience was a breath of fresh air and I doubt I’ll ever walk back into a retail outlet to buy shoes again.

But even though I’ve taken a step or two in the right direction, my journey for the perfect shoe isn’t over.

The next step is to integrate environmentally friendly materials. The materials in this shoe are largely petroleum based and I don’t have much insight into where they were sourced. As I work toward creating a positive impact shoe, my next pair will have to come from sustainably sourced or repurposed materials.

If you have some advice, ideas, or tips to help me find sustainable materials let me know! And, if you have had similar experiences please share so we can learn from them.

 

prch Guide: Eco-Friendly & Ethical Sunglasses

Look good, do good, feel good…

Go Right To The Guide

There are two main ways sunglasses are becoming sustainable. 1. By being socially conscious 2. By being environmentally conscious.

Eco-friendly sunglasses decrease your environmental impact and are pretty cool… but if you’re looking to do the most good with your purchase, choosing a highly ethical brand will have a bigger impact. The environmental impact of producing sunglasses is pretty low compared to industries like textiles, but some social contributions from companies are changing lives.

How To Do The Most Good (when shopping for sunglasses):

This guide ranks sunglass companies from the most beneficial to society and environment to the least. Companies that are both environmentally and ethically responsible are the highest, but there is a higher emphasis placed on ethical contributions. Here is a quick breakdown of how you can do the most good when shopping for sunglasses:

Best – Shop from ethical and eco-friendly sunglass brands.

Almost as Good – Shop from ethical brands. Ethical brands are rated pretty high in this guide because they have a considerable impact on the areas they work in, like providing glasses or sight restoring surgery for those in need.

Still Good – Shop from eco-friendly sunglass brands.

Just Don’t – Shop from brands that are neither socially or environmentally responsible… or are under the Luxottica monopoly umbrella. (Yikes)

About Eco-Friendly Sunglasses

Eco-friendly sunglasses are made with recycled or eco-friendly materials. This is almost exclusively limited to the arms of the sunglass but some companies are using more eco-friendly materials for the lenses. The most popular materials for eco-friendly sunglasses are:

• Recycled or repurposed materials like plastic, metal, and wood
• Bio-based materials
• FSC Certified wood
• Bamboo

About Ethical Sunglasses

Ethical sunglasses come from companies that do good with their profits. The most common method of charity for sunglass companies is a 1 for 1 model where they provide a service to others in need for every pair of sunglasses purchased. Some common 1 for 1 ethical business models include:

• One pair of glasses – for every pair of glasses you purchase, the company will provide a pair of eye glasses for a child in need.
• Eye Surgery – for every pair of glasses purchased the company will provide a needed eye procedure for a child in need.
• Plant A Tree – a tree is planted for every pair of sunglasses purchased.

There are also ethical companies who openly provide charitable donations. Donations and recipients vary, so this should be judged on a case by case basis.

 

Guide To The Best Ethical & Eco-Friendly Sunglass Brands

If you’re looking to maximize your good and minimize your impact the best thing to do is buy from a company that is both environmentally and ethically responsible. The most ethical and eco-friendly sunglasses are:

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Solo Eyewear  – San Diego, California

Ethical: Each pair of SOLOs purchased funds eye care for people in need through prescription eyeglasses and sight saving eye surgeries. Solo Eyewear states that they have restored vision to 10,000 people in 32 countries.

Eco-Friendly: Solo has a recycled plastic line (they don’t state what % is recycled) and a repurposed bamboo line.

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Proof – Boise, Idaho

Ethical: Proof has donated over 12% of its profits to its Do Good Program which intends to give back on a project by project basis. They have worked with:

• The Nature Conservancy
• Boarding for Breast Cancer
• HELP International

Eco-Friendly: Proof uses sustainably sourced woods and repurposed/recycled materials for their frames.

• zebra wood
• lacewood
• ebony
• mahogany
• walnut bamboo and stained bamboo
• old skateboard decks
• cotton-based acetate
• recycled aluminum

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Panda

Ethical: Panda is another brand that has adopted the one for one model of charity.

• Gift of Vision – At the end of each month they tally the number of sunglasses sold and donate enough to their nonprofit partner to cover the cost of that same amount of prescription glasses and medical eye exams for those in need.
• Gift of Education – Panda also sells watches… and they work with the international non-profit Pencils of Promise to provide educational opportunities for children in need. Pencils of Promise builds schools, provides teacher support, student scholarships, and water and health programs in underprivileged areas.

Eco-Friendly: Panda sunglasses are handcrafted from sustainably sourced bamboo.

 

The Best Ethical Sunglass Brands

Ethical sunglass brands are almost as responsible as eco-friendly and ethical brands. These sunglass brands are highly ethical and also a little eco-friendly.

Toms  – Los Angeles, California

Ethical: We all know about their shoes, but Toms has also launched an ethical line of eyewear.

• One for One – For every pair of sunglasses purchased, Toms provides sight-saving surgery, prescription glasses, or medical treatment for someone in need.
• Impact – Toms has helped restore sight to over 400,000 people in 13 different countries.

Eco-Friendly: Toms is known to be an environmentally conscious company, but they do not offer specific information about the environmental impact of their sunglass line.

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Modo – New York, New York

Ethical:

• Buy A Frame – Give A Frame: for every Modo frame purchased, they donate a frame to someone in need (working to help those in need in Nepal).

Eco-Friendly (honorable mention): Their eco-collection utilizes environmentally friendly materials (Note – this is specifically on their ECO line, not all of their sunglasses)

• Bio-based materials (63%)
• Recycled materials (95%)
• One Frame – One Tree: Their wording is a bit unclear on their site, but it can be interpreted that a tree is planted for each purchased from from their ECO line.

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Westward Leaning – San Francisco, California

Ethical: For every pair sold, Westward Leaning donates $10 to select charities.

 

The Best Eco-Friendly Sunglass Brands

These sunglass brands are eco-friendly but not as ethical as some of the other brands covered in this guide. You’ll drive more change by shopping from more ethically minded brands, but you can still feel good about supporting these companies because they do work to be more eco-friendly and some of them also make ethical contributions.

Zeal Optics  – Boulder, Colorado

Eco-Friendly: Zeal Optics uses plant-based materials in all its sunglass frames and lenses.

• M49 Biodegradable Acetate – M49 is a natural material produced from cotton and wood pulp fibers. It is free of toxic substances used in most plastics and will begin to biodegrade if left under water or in soil after 18 months.
• Ellume – Used in Zeal’s lenses, ellume is constructed of plant-based materials rather than petroleum-based materials.
• Z Resin – Z-Resin is a plant-based alternative to plastic, derived from the castor bean.

Ethical (honorable mention): Zeal donates a portion of it’s profits to charity via partnerships and projects that aim to “bring inspirational adventures to those who might never have felt the thrill of a running river or the calm of a mountain top”.

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Woodwear  – Hermosa Beach, California

Eco-Friendly: Woodwear makes handmade frames from bamboo, which regenerates 8 times faster than hardwood, it matures rapidly, and isn’t killed during harvest.

Ethical (honorable mention): Woodwear donates “a percentage of each sale to organizations that are helping others”.

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Shwood Portland, Oregon

Eco-Friendly: Frames are made by hand from natural materials:

• Wood – Swhood’s woods are all sustainably-harvested from authorized and supervised plantations
• cellulite acetate – a biodegradable material made from cotton and wood pulp
• Stone
• Titanium

The variety of sunglasses we see in stores, from sportswear to designer… is all an illusion.

The truth: One $9B company owns almost the entire industry.

Luxottica makes around 75 million pairs of glasses each year, designing and manufacturing brands like Prada, Tiffany & Co, Coach, Versace, Ray Ban, Oakley… the list goes on.

This once small Italian company got its start in Milan in 1961 but has since grown to dominate the sunglass industry, designing, manufacturing, and distributing almost every major brand we wear. In 2012, the Luxottica CEO estimated that 500 million people were wearing their sunglasses.

Luxottica’s in-house brands include designs like Ray Ban, Oakley, Arnette, which it has absorbed over the years.

 

Luxottica also licenses, designs, and manufacturers even more brands. You might recognize some of these designer glasses frequently sold above $200. Luxottica has exclusive agreements with these brands preventing anyone else from manufacturing them.

Luxottica also distributes its own sunglasses through its own retailers. In a little known monopoly, Luxottica owns the sunglass industry from start to finish. From the design, to the manufacturing, and even to the distribution and sale of its glasses, Luxottica does it all.

 

What does this mean for the sunglass market? For the environment?

Artificially inflated prices. When one company controls everything from start to finish and overshadows all competition, they control the price. The mark up on many of their designer brands is 20x the cost of manufacturing.

Innovation suffers. Less competition means less innovation. It’s difficult for small businesses to enter the market when they can’t get their sunglasses into retail stores because all of the retailers are owned by one company.

Ethics can suffer. Large corporations are driven to return as much profit as possible for their shareholders which often comes at the expense of an organization’s CSR.

Consumer culture is perpetuated. The latest style and the next fad continue to be pushed on consumers so we pay for overpriced sunglasses we don’t really need. Our overconsumption doesn’t make us happier and the cradle-to-grave model is bad for the environment.

What we can do. Be a bit more conscious.

Buy local. Thanks to the good ol’ internet, small sunglass brands are able to compete (somewhat) with the big dogs and new brands are starting to pop up around the US. Many of them are environmentally conscious and work to have a positive social impact.

Shop for quality. Take your time and do your research to find glasses that are well made and fit you right. You’ll probably find that the more effort you put into finding the right pair, the better you’ll take care of them and the longer they will last.

Have a positive impact. There are several companies adopting the 1 for 1 business model, including Toms, which has expanded from shoes to sunglasses. If you’re going to buy a pair of sunglasses you might as well contribute to a good cause.

Take better care. The fewer pairs of sunglasses you lose or wreck, the fewer you have to buy. Getting a case with your glasses might be a good call if you tend to break stuff.

Just Index – Another resource for conscious consumers

One of the hardest parts of being a conscious consumer is knowing which companies to support. Luckily, new resources like the Just Index are coming to our aid.

Paul Tudor Jones is the founder of the Just Index, a nonprofit that ranks the ethics of corporations in the US based on criteria chosen by US citizens. This inspiring TedTalk reveals another innovative way we can use the free market to correct the pitfalls of capitalism.

 

 

Highlights from Why We Need To Rethink Capitalism

Capitalism – an economic and political system in which a country’s trade and industry are controlled by private owners for profit, rather than by the state.

Over the past 50 years, we as a society, have come to view our companies and corporations in a very narrow, almost monomaniacal fashion, with regard to how we value them.

 

We have put so much emphasis on profits, short term quarterly earnings and share profits, at the exclusion of all else.

 

It’s like we’ve ripped the humanity out of our companies. We don’t conveniently reduce something to a set of numbers to play with like lego toys in our individual life; we don’t value someone based on their monthly income or their credit score. But we have this double standard when it comes to the way we value our businesses and it’s threatening the underpinnings of our society.

US Corporate Profit Margins

This is great news if you are a shareholder, but what about the average American worker?

US Share of Income Going to Laborer vs CEO-to-Worker Compensation Ratio

Higher profit margins do not increase societal wealth, they exacerbate income inequality.

If the top 10% of American families own 90% of the stocks, they take a greater share of corporate profits and there is less left for the rest of society.

Relationship Between Income Inequality and Social Problems

The further to the right you go, the greater the income inequality. The further up you go, the worse the social and health problems are. These health metrics include nine factors such as life expectancy, teenage pregnancy, literacy, social mobility etc.

Where is the US on this chart?

The US is literally off the chart…

The greatest income inequality and the greatest social problems according to these metrics.

History always closes the gap between the rich and the poor…

It typically happens in one of three ways.

• Revolution
• Higher Taxes
• War

There may be another option for us: Increase justice in corporate behavior.

Where are we now when it comes to corporate behavior?…We are so entrenched in a profits mania that we don’t even know how we are harming society…

US Corporate Giving as a Percentage of Pre-Tax Profits

US Corporate Giving as a Percentage of Pre-Tax Profits with Corporate Profit Margins

We can clearly see profit margins have gone up and giving has gone down. Does this feel right?

Good people part of a bad thing

We are so deeply entrenched in this profit mania that well intentioned people don’t even realize they are a part of it.

The Solution: Drive more just behavior.

We can utilize the free market system that got us here to turn things around.

We can help companies and corporations learn how to operate in a more just fashion, but we need to define the criteria for just corporate behavior. Right now there is no widely excepted standard for companies or corporations to follow… but Paul’s non-profit plans to change that.

The JUST Index (independent, third party) plans to offer this framework. By polling the public they define what just performance means to the people and publish the performance of America’s largest 1,000 companies according to these standards.

The Goal

As people begin to see which companies are more just, human and economic resources will be driven toward them. Just companies will become the most prosperous and will lead the way toward sustainability.

“If justice is removed…the great, the immense fabric of human society…must in a moment crumble to atoms.” – Adam Smith

 

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